In 2006, the well known artisans of minimalist watch design at H. Moser & Cie, shocked us again with a GPHI award-winning study in simplicity. The perpetual calendar, a complication which often indeed suffers in legibility due to the expression it must make, was turned upside down in Schauffhausen.
On this black edition, the clean gold applied stick-markers keep the face clean so that the small golden arrow can point to the number of the month without fanfare. If it is September, it points to the 9 o’clock position, in March it points to 3’clock. Never before has a watch feature made something so obvious into a clever, legible and iconic complication.
The leap year indicator can be seen by flipping over the watch and looking through the display back, and while you are there you may want to examine the DLC coated movement that has a high degree of detail and finishing. Not something to omit, the pallet fork is fashioned out of hardened gold as is its escape wheel.
The lightweight titanium metal means that this stealthy watch often melts away in feeling as well as visually. The beautiful carbon coated alligator, has the look of luxury, with technology that is truly “Mission Impossible” level! Moser, also known for there hairspring creation, also uses the Straumann based hairspring, made in their own labs and fashioned for accuracy over a very long period of time.
The hacking seconds make us feel the precision with which this watch functions and the “flash date” means at exactly 12 o’clock midnight the date changes with exceptional speed. Adustments are done by the crown alone, also meaning there are not the cautionary placquards often included with perpetual watches warning of how the user might break the watch. This perpetual calendar is truly user friendly in that th simple setting function with a two position crown works just like you would imagine it to the very first time you pick it up.
With Moser & Cie, one gets the feeling that this watch has left nothing to chance.
Case: Titanium, 40.8mm x 11.1mm, DLC coated
Movement: 18000vb/s, DLC coated HMC 341 manual wind
Complications: perpetual calendar, hacking seconds
Power Reserve: 7 days
Crystal: curved sapphire, display back, with leap year indicator
Includes: watch, box, strap, buckle.
H. Moser & Cie. is unique in the watch world in that they are an audacious company with legitimate watchmaking credibility. The watch industry has a number of companies that make great watches, and there are several companies that deserve to be called audacious, but Moser is the only one in the intersection of that Venn diagram.
The MB&F HM5 Carbon Macrolon
The MB&F HM5 crafted out of Carbon Macrolon is an innovative and stylish way to keep time while driving! With the flip up vents and other 1970s style automotive flourishes, you will not have to flick your wrist to see the time as you navigate the twisties.